Lured to south-east Asia by his love of Taiwanese squishy steamed bread, our writer finds a dazzling array of edibles on offer in Taipei’s markets
The Guardian
Date: Sun 31 Dec ‘17
By: Ed Cumming
Bao, a tiny Taiwanese restaurant in London’s Soho (with outposts in Fitzrovia and
Hackney), is a compelling advertisement for its country. Like a little culinary embassy, since 2014 it has been doling out soft power at reasonable prices to the endless queues at its door.
It specialises in gua bao, flat squishy discs of steamed bread, folded around whatever you care to put in them. Braised pork belly with coriander and ground peanuts is a traditional option, but almost anything works: deepfried daikon radish, stewed beef, spicy fried chicken. The bread is sweeter and more consistent than any western bun, and holds the fillings better. Even the word bao is a source of fascination. It even sounds like an expression of joy: bao!
We sought out some gua bao as soon as we landed in Taipei, Taiwan’s capital, and found them at the Ningxia night market, a 100-metre-long strip of tiny food stalls, each specialising in one dish, set up along a closed-off road. These night markets, lurid and busy against the dark mountains and looming double-decker motorways, are a picturesque expression of the city’s charms. On other evenings we visited other night markets: Raohe and the sprawling Shilin, in the north of the city, where fevered games of mahjong take place and you can throw darts at balloons to win a plush Pokémon toy. [FULL STORY]